The ferry price from Olba to Civitavecchia included a cabin which we filled up quickly with helmets, jackets, bike pants and panniers. It’s the middle of May and at 6o’clock in the morning when the ferry docked we were welcomed with a warm hot wind. We took the back roads to Rome through the hilltop town of Bracciano where already at 7am the cafes were filled with noisy people drinking coffee and chomping on cheesy breads for breakfast. We couldn’t resist. Our camping discount-guide deal took us to a huge campsite 12kms outside of Rome city centre. The traffic was nose to tail which increases the pleasure of motorbike riding as B overtakes and ducks back in slowly getting ahead of the queue. Alarmingly, some motorists also thought they were on bikes and tried the same tricks until stopped on the wrong side of the road head-on into a police car. B mentioned that every country has its own driving style and he is constantly adapting his to suit. Rome scored low on the list of careful and considerate.
The Flaminio campsite is perfect if you are in a camper van: level grassy ground next to the ablutions. Tents are relegated to a rocky slope 500 paces away from all amenities. Well we pay less so they don’t care. Using B’s age as a feeler for any compassion we explained about middle of the night pee-trips. Not interested. Never mind there is a hedge in Flaminio Campsite that is well irrigated. After clearing some stones and tucking ourselves behind said hedge we set up camp for a 2 night (3 day) stay. This time the tarpaulin was tied to the fence and a tree, and we stomped the pegs in with a boot. A thought came to mind: We need to buy triangular duralium pegs as recommended by George, and a lightweight mallet.
There’s a pool. We wander up to the top of the hill, carrying our superlightweight black ‘crushable to nothing’ costumes which we had been required to buy before entering a thermal spa on a previous trip around France. They fit into the front panniers along with other wet-wear gear. This pool requires the compulsory purchase of a bathing cap each; cost 4 euros, so both looking like we are training for the Olympics we don cap and cozzie. The water is freezing but we had to do it. We met a charming English couple at the poolside who sold their house in ‘Blighty’ 3 years ago, bought a caravan (not a camper) and live permanently in Spain on a campsite. Because of ferry costs they had come to Rome by car only and a luxury tent for their 2 week Roman adventure. They tour around Europe and do the grandparents’ bit in the UK when required. As an ex-Army chap, this semi-nomadic lifestyle suits him and his wife perfectly until such time as they will move back to the UK and live with their grown up children. We are fascinated by their lifestyle change and good spirit. They also supplied us with heaps of information about trains, buses and must-see sights.
Suitably cooled down and refreshed we walk to the metro and arrive in Rome, popping out in the centre. The Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Working Things catches our eye and we spend a pleasant cool 2 hours handling large wooden workable replicas of the machines he invented. What a brilliant place. We had two return trips into Rome city centre by Metro and eventually worked out that the maximum change at the ticket machine is 3 euros, so if you put a 10 euro note in for tickets totalling 6 euros, you will not be issued tickets as it cannot give you change! Tip of the day: keep your coins.
The Coliseum was filled with people, the Trevi fountains were filled with people, the Spanish steps were filled with people, the Vatican was filled with people and the Pantheon was filled with people. We wiggled our way around and through them glimpsing the historic sights and tried to capture the feel of the ancient empire. Army trucks blocked main roads and the presence of security forces dominated the area. We found a shady courtyard with benches and trees to eat our picnic and chatted to a couple from Finland. Over 2 days we walked our sandaled feet off, drank lots of water and took masses of photos. The only Romans we saw were Gladiators selling their tours. Tick that box, time to move on.
So why are we exploring Europe? Primarily to meet the locals, sample their cuisine and understand modern day Europe, pre-Brexit and the migrant crisis. Back at the campsite we started to rethink our riding Route. Yes, we would try and ride through every capital city. No, we would not just ride from campsite to campsite. We repacked the bike so the thermals are now buried far away and the rain gear is quickly accessible.
Another glorious day, our last one here, and we brave the traffic once more and ride straight through the city centre with a fully loaded bike, and proceed South along the coast with the sea on our right. The wind almost blew us inland again. We were a bit disappointed to see the laybyes filled with old furniture and black rubbish bags. Actually the dilapidated and neglected state of the countryside confirms to us that Southern Italy is in trouble.
Rome need more than ears.
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