Day 12/56 : 15,00kms
around Europe.
The wind didn't chase
the clouds away. They are getting darker and darker. And as we ride
further south down the Eastern leg of the Italian boot it is becoming
apparent we need to make a plan. The plan starts forming as we wind
our way past groves of olive trees, fields of sweet potatoes, hilltop
towns and polytunnels of peaches. We'll just have follow the big
bright blue circle of sky that has appeared, as if by magic, above
our helmet heads. We dash through Agropoulis, down the via Appia to
Acciarolli where we shelter from the rain for coffee and croissants.
More blue circle skies take us to Policastro for a picnic lunch on
the harbour wall and then it's on to Lagonegro and Policoro. So far
we have avoided getting wet by dodging the deep, deep grey canopy and
riding under the blue patches overhead. Then by late afternoon our
luck ran out. No blue skies and lots of rain. We head for the
autostrada and stop in a SOS lay-by to complete the arduous and
tricky task of donning rainsuits, standing on one leg, then the
other, over boots, over bulky jackets and propping ourselves on the
bike without it or us falling over. The rain makes our fingers sticky
and clumsy. A bright Orange Highway Service van stops to offer
assistance. “Thanks, but no thanks, we're done”. Both attired in
luminous green Hi-Vis Babygros, and then the rain stops. Too bad, we
keep them on and keep warm against the late afternoon howling wind
that is now driving the clouds and rain away. The flat lands across
the Sole of the Boot create tremendous side winds so we tuck
ourselves in the fast lane as close as possible to the centre Armco
barrier and and swaying plants for protection. It's exhausting,but we
hang on until we spot a welcoming sign to San Marco Agroturissimo. We
agree “that's definitely enough for the day” as we drive down an
elegant tree-lined drive to a stunning geometric classical white
building overlooking the vast windy valley below. We knock. We call
loudly with no response. “There's some people in the garden” I
say. Bedraggled, windswept and wearily we stroll over “ Buenos
dias,can you help us please?” Yes, they are relatives of the
grandmother who runs the agroturissimo. Back to the white cube where
they all disappear inside and bring out an elegantly dressed
octogenarian, styled with bold red lipstick and beautiful coiffured
hair. She opens the door into tiny side room/office and everybody
squashes in. Fifteen Italians ranging from 60 years down to 4 years,
plus 2 bikers with helmet and jackets, make for a very cosy confab.
We proceed to have at least 5 very loud conversations in both English
and Italian where everybody is translating and joining in and
eventually hand over some money and are informed that we can pitch
the tent in the garden. There's a spotless bathroom for our use, plus
washing machine and another tent with a friendly Belgian couple. We
tie our tent to a disused caravan and a large tree, find a broken terracotta pot to
act as a wind shield and boil up water for an authentic spaghetti
supper. A gift of homemade red wine appears from one of the family
and we spend an entertaining evening with our neighbours swapping
travel stories. The wind dies down overnight and we wake up to a
beautiful bright blue day, no rain, no clouds. Following the blue
circle in the sky took us through villages, harbours and mountain
passes, and adventures that surprised, delighted and wore us out.
What a great way to travel.
